Point-on Poundage?

[PorlyP]

Hi all!

I was just thinking about shooting, as I usually do when I've not had my fill for a while!

Anyway, I was wondering if there's a table of poundages for point-on aiming for various distances, as I was thinking of seeing which poundage would be optimal.

I mean, why bother getting a bow that's so strong that you can go poin-on with, but don't need to have, when a lower poundage would produce the same results?

Naturally, I've put this question to you lot in here, as somehow I thought you all might have a similar anchor, and might be able to correct me if I've made any wrong assumptions.

Cheers!

[JohnK]

In short, no. There are too many variables (limb type, draw length, arrow weight, face shape etc. etc.)

[English Bowman]

I agree with John above that there are no hard and fast rules to what will give you point on and what won't. With experience an educated guess can be made, but in order to make that guess we'd need to know what type of bow you were planning to shoot, what anchor you're using and what type of arrows and fletchings. This is a bare minimum, it would also help to know the string type and size on the bow, your draw length, and how good your loose is. Even then, it'll only be a guess as to where your point on distance will be.

Daniel

[hawkeye]

Sooo many factors are involved as English bowman said.

I would suggest trail and error. In my opinion that is the only way.

I have tried a range of poundage longbows and my target longbow is 65lb. I have been told so many times 'your 65lb bow is too heavy for target' but I like it! I can feel it in my hands and I know what it is going to do. I have tried shooting a 50lb'er and I just can't get on with it as it feels like I have a toy bow in my hands. I am built like a brick **** house mind.

I admit that my target bow is the lightest bow I own but I suppose that just goes to prove a point - use a bow that you are comfortable with then learn where to point it.

By the way at 60yds I point at the centre of the target and generally hit it. Do bear in mind that the heavier the bow - the more difficult the shorter distances, in my experience anyway.

I hope this has helped and or made sense.

[Macbow]

As the other guys have said, too many variables. For example if my mate and I shoot each other's bows my point on is still 50 yards and his is still 30. In fact when I shoot his bow I just can't understand why his POA is so low. We anchor same finger at the same place but we do have completely different face shapes.

[steve58]

I think another variable must be your actual form/style of shot? Watching other archers I see some who pretty much dead loose, some who shoot with a very solid bow arm and active drawing arm, some who are the opposite. I am thinking that if an archer uses a push/pull style that is going to be more dynamic than either locking the bow arm and triggering the loose with the drawing arm, or coming to anchor with the drawing arm and triggering the shot with the push of the bow arm. It would be educational to know if I am completely at sea here and why!

[Yew Selfbow]

PorlyP
Each bow and arrow combination has what can be described as a "natural distance" .. that is, where the arrow lands when shot at a specific elevation.
Finding the natural distance of you bow is easy.
Set a target out at 100 yards. Draw your bow in the normal way placing the pile of the arrow on the centre of the boss and release. If the arrow falls short then take a few steps forward and repeat the exercise. keep moving forward a few steps at a time and keep shooting at the centre of the boss. Eventually your arrows will begin to fall onto the boss. If the arrows begin to go over the top of the boss, then, take a step backwards. Keep moving backwards and forwards untill the arrows begin to settle around the centre of the boss but always place the pile on the boss centre. When you hitting consistantly around the centre of the boss, measure the distance from your shooting position to the face of your boss and that is the natural distance of your bow.
Once you know the natural distance of your bow you can adjust your point of aim according to the distance your shooting.

[steve58]

Originally Posted by Yew Selfbow

PorlyP
Each bow and arrow combination has what can be described as a "natural distance" .. that is, where the arrow lands when shot at a specific elevation.
Finding the natural distance of you bow is easy.
Set a target out at 100 yards. Draw your bow in the normal way placing the pile of the arrow on the centre of the boss and release. If the arrow falls short then take a few steps forward and repeat the exercise. keep moving forward a few steps at a time and keep shooting at the centre of the boss. Eventually your arrows will begin to fall onto the boss. If the arrows begin to go over the top of the boss, then, take a step backwards. Keep moving backwards and forwards untill the arrows begin to settle around the centre of the boss but always place the pile on the boss centre. When you hitting consistantly around the centre of the boss, measure the distance from your shooting position to the face of your boss and that is the natural distance of your bow.
Once you know the natural distance of your bow you can adjust your point of aim according to the distance your shooting.

That sounds like a very interesting exercise, wonder if I can persuade my fellow club members to let me try it one evening? I assume that this will vary according to the arrows shot as well as the bow? Therefore the exercise will have to be repeated several times? Wish I had my own field to play in!

[PorlyP]

Thanks all, given me a lot of variables (I designed a shooting machine that could take most of these into account, except for loose style).

Thanks Yew (or should that be "eye thank yew" ) for the test idea, it's obvious when you think about it!

I could technically generate a lot of test data like that, might try that out actually, if I ever get the time!

And thanks Hawkeye, I thought that there would be an eventual downside to having a super-heavy bow, which is partly the reason I started thinking about this in the first place.