Sitka Spruce

[steve58]

Does anyone have any views on the robustness of this wood? I have just invested in a set of bits from HiForce and the resulting arrows are 10 grammes lighter than anything else I have made. I can now see the boss at 100 yards, result! However, every ointment seems to have a fly, and a couple of the shaft seem to have dented rather easily from deflecting off the boss/stand. Can anyone corroborate this? Should I start saving up for a new set now?

[Miner Willy]

Originally Posted by steve58

Does anyone have any views on the robustness of this wood? I have just invested in a set of bits from HiForce and the resulting arrows are 10 grammes lighter than anything else I have made. I can now see the boss at 100 yards, result! However, every ointment seems to have a fly, and a couple of the shaft seem to have dented rather easily from deflecting off the boss/stand. Can anyone corroborate this? Should I start saving up for a new set now?

Got mine from elsewhere, but yes they are a little "soft". Gotta remember that they are a softwood arrow, they still fly true and I haven't had any problems with them. Even spine testing thime lest a little indentatin on them. That said I haven't broken any and I've hit more than my fair share of stands etc.
HTH

[Macbow]

If they are working for you then stick with them for a while. There's always some sort of compromise when it comes to the ideal arrow. Lots of different woods have been successfully used for shafting. Saxton Pope in the 1920s said after extensive research he recommended Birch for hunting arrows and Northern Pine or Douglas Fir for target shooting. The popularity of Port Orford Cedar came later after Howard Hill became a household name. Hill was a big guy with a very long draw shooting 3/8 shafts tapered to 11/32 out of 80-100lb bows. Cedar proved ideal for him but just as you are doing I think more trad archers should experiment with different shaft woods.

[steve58]

Well I can't complain about how well they fly... cracked 300 for a York for the first time yesterday, will persist and see how long they last!

[dooby]

have you thought of trying to toughen the arrows up a bit by using different finnishs on them. I have recently discovered a boat building epoxy that is made to soak softwoods and make then strong enough to withstand sea going conditions. you might be able to 'varnish' the soft arrow shaft to toughen them up a bit. the only problem I can forsee is that the resin might ad too much weight or increase the spine stiffness a bit. The epoxy is called west system and you can get it from Axminster power tools if you want to try it out. good luck and keep experimenting. Its the sorce of all success.

Dooby

[robtattoo]

Mine passed through a bloody great goat then bounced 20 yds accross broken rock & still shoots fine!

[Macbow]

Originally Posted by dooby

have you thought of trying to toughen the arrows up a bit by using different finnishs on them. I have recently discovered a boat building epoxy that is made to soak softwoods and make then strong enough to withstand sea going conditions. you might be able to 'varnish' the soft arrow shaft to toughen them up a bit. the only problem I can forsee is that the resin might ad too much weight or increase the spine stiffness a bit. The epoxy is called west system and you can get it from Axminster power tools if you want to try it out. good luck and keep experimenting. Its the sorce of all success.

Dooby

If you just soaked the first six inches of the shaft it could perhaps toughen up the pile end without affecting spine.

[jaselpool]

Originally Posted by steve58

Does anyone have any views on the robustness of this wood? I have just invested in a set of bits from HiForce and the resulting arrows are 10 grammes lighter than anything else I have made. I can now see the boss at 100 yards, result! However, every ointment seems to have a fly, and a couple of the shaft seem to have dented rather easily from deflecting off the boss/stand. Can anyone corroborate this? Should I start saving up for a new set now?

Hi Steve - I sell nothing but Sitka Spruce - the best target arrow wood IMO. Lighter than POC and more durable than pine. Use a couple of coats (sanded back between them) of strong hard wood varnish such as Ronseal floor and you won't have denting probs. The matt finish one gives it a cracking finish. I also add in a couple of coats of danish oil to bring the grain out on the arrows I make

Jason

[steve58]

Originally Posted by jaselpool

Hi Steve - I sell nothing but Sitka Spruce - the best target arrow wood IMO. Lighter than POC and more durable than pine. Use a couple of coats (sanded back between them) of strong hard wood varnish such as Ronseal floor and you won't have denting probs. The matt finish one gives it a cracking finish. I also add in a couple of coats of danish oil to bring the grain out on the arrows I make

Jason

Thanks for that, my current preferred finish is a couple of coats of Rustins Danish oil and a coat of yacht varnish. The yacht varnish is a bit of a beggar for picking up bits of straw out of the boss though.

[gino]

I recently bought a set of Sitka Spruce arrows and my mate picked up two sets of the same all from Hiforce and other from them being excellently made arrows I find the wood is light and easy to use, there is a noticeable difference from Cedar (as much as I love cedarwood ) and I think I'll stick to Sitka Spruce from now on.