Self-nocked wooden arrows

[darthTer]

Where can you get the inserts from???

[robtattoo]

Richard Head longbows sell thepre-cut horn inserts, quite reasonable too. Slivers of plastic/hardwood work just as well though!

[jaselpool]

Hi there

As well as Richard you can also buy from here:

Highland Horn - Archery - nock blanks, horn dowels, sinew and long horns

[jb.68]

Originally Posted by darthter

Where can you get the inserts from???

Well I am a chippy so the oak ones come from offcuts of timber. The plastic that I use comes from 2 old tool trays that I was chuckin' out. Though alot of the other guys use cd cases. you can also get it in thin sheets which you can cut to size.

I dont bother with horn anymore. Too smelly (it really stinks) Too expensive (for me anyway, the other materials are free to me) and too weak, ie prone to nocks blowing up, espesially when they've been shot a few times.

[AlanClark]

Originally Posted by LobbyMuncher

Hello

Having bought shafts (11/32, 32" POC), flights (4"), points, thread, fletching jig and pencil-sharpener thingy from Quicks, I'm about to have a go at making some arrows. When cutting the self-nock, which way should the cut go, along the grain or across the grain? I reckon they would be stronger if the cut is along, or with, the grain - but will be harder to cut.

Many thanks

ChrisM

I am new to this site, but have made plenty of self nocked arrows, so here is my threepenneth. For accurate shooting the slot should be dead centre, and parallel to the shaft. This requires accurate cutting so don't bother with tile saws, coping saws, hacksaw blades or round files. A woodworker wouldn't use any of these to cut a tenon or dovetail, so use a proper saw. I use a small tenon saw for the first cut, then open the cut out with a small flat file, and round over the bottom corners. If the first cut comes out at a slight angle it is easy to correct it with the file. To make the first cut accurately I first use the nock taper tool on the end of the shaft. This leaves a small flat circle dead centre on the end of the shaft. I place the shaft plumb upright in the vise, and place the saw on the circle to start the cut.
After the cut has been opened out with the file it is still not quite wide enough so I open it out wider by wrapping abrasive paper round the file. It is usually necessary to do this again when the arrow is finished, to clear gummed up varnish out of the slot, whilst testing the arrow on the bowstring.
Hope this helps.

Alan

[jaselpool]

Originally Posted by AlanClark

I am new to this site, but have made plenty of self nocked arrows, so here is my threepenneth. For accurate shooting the slot should be dead centre, and parallel to the shaft. This requires accurate cutting so don't bother with tile saws, coping saws, hacksaw blades or round files. A woodworker wouldn't use any of these to cut a tenon or dovetail, so use a proper saw. I use a small tenon saw for the first cut, then open the cut out with a small flat file, and round over the bottom corners. If the first cut comes out at a slight angle it is easy to correct it with the file. To make the first cut accurately I first use the nock taper tool on the end of the shaft. This leaves a small flat circle dead centre on the end of the shaft. I place the shaft plumb upright in the vise, and place the saw on the circle to start the cut.
After the cut has been opened out with the file it is still not quite wide enough so I open it out wider by wrapping abrasive paper round the file. It is usually necessary to do this again when the arrow is finished, to clear gummed up varnish out of the slot, whilst testing the arrow on the bowstring.
Hope this helps.

Alan

Hi Alan - as with most things in trad archery there are always several ways to so the same thing and each to their own. I would like to just point out though as a fletcher for many years that the option I mentioned does allow you to cut accurate inserts and nocks as the first cut is indeed with a Tenon saw - or in my case a japanese Dozuki saw. the Hacksaw method is accurate and also allows you to get the correct width of cut for a snug fit on the horn. I Haven't had an unhappy customer yet and I'm sure there are others with alternative methods yet to post.

Jason

[LobbyMuncher]

Hi chaps

Many thanks for all the help!

There are some great ideas here but what's surprised me most of all is the variation in the last couple of inches of the nocked end of the arrow, in all of your photos. The nock depth varies tremendously, as does the distance between the rear end of the fletches and the rear end of the arrow.

I have to start somewhere, so I'm going to make a jig which will allow me to make a single central cut using the tile saw - it's sharp, tough and exactly the right width, and needs only something to stabilise it to make a perfect cut with a rounded bottom (trying not to think of J-Lo now). I'll cut the nocks to the same depth as Rob's - because the nocks on the arrows in longbow class are about that depth, no other reason.

Cheers

ChrisM

[AlanClark]

Originally Posted by jaselpool

Hi Alan - as with most things in trad archery there are always several ways to so the same thing and each to their own. I would like to just point out though as a fletcher for many years that the option I mentioned does allow you to cut accurate inserts and nocks as the first cut is indeed with a Tenon saw - or in my case a japanese Dozuki saw. the Hacksaw method is accurate and also allows you to get the correct width of cut for a snug fit on the horn. I Haven't had an unhappy customer yet and I'm sure there are others with alternative methods yet to post.

Jason

Jason, Hello.
I am sure your nocks are first rate, just as I am sure that any experienced woodworker could cut accurate nocks with whatever came to hand-even a jagged wild boar tooth! But my impression was that ChrisM wasn't too experienced, and I thought it a pity if he handicapped himself with a saw that was designed to cut curves rather than straight lines. Chris, you say that you are making a jig to overcome this problem, but I still think your best approach would be to use the easiest tools for the job, then you won't need a jig, and you will train your eye better.
But, like Jason says, everyone has their own method.
One final point; cut your nocks first, before you cut your arrows to length. Then if you do go wrong you have some spare wood to try again.

Alan

[LobbyMuncher]

Hi Alan

Spot on, programming is quite different to woodwork! I've only had time to nock one arrow, using the method taught by our longbow coach - which is a first cut using a hacksaw, widened using the tile saw. It's not perfect but I think it would be usable. Like anything else, it would take some time and practice to perfect.
Still, I reckon that time spent making a jig to frame the tile saw in exactly the right place would be time saved in spades later on. I'll post piccies when it's done, provided that it's not too embarrassingly amateur!

Cheers

ChrisM

[AlanClark]

Originally Posted by LobbyMuncher

Hi Alan

Spot on, programming is quite different to woodwork! I've only had time to nock one arrow, using the method taught by our longbow coach - which is a first cut using a hacksaw, widened using the tile saw. It's not perfect but I think it would be usable. Like anything else, it would take some time and practice to perfect.
Still, I reckon that time spent making a jig to frame the tile saw in exactly the right place would be time saved in spades later on. I'll post piccies when it's done, provided that it's not too embarrassingly amateur!

Cheers

ChrisM

Hi Chris,

Best of luck! I'm sure you will do a good job. Just stick at it.


Alan