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Traditional Archery: Discussion/Q&A Discussions on the more traditional forms of archery: long bows, war bows, AFB, horse bows etc.

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-07, 04:08 PM
Saxon's Avatar
In the White
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Setup
Riser: Early, usually 7am
Limbs: One, laminate warbow
Sight: 20-20
Stabilisers: Size 10
Button: More of a zip man
Bow String: Thick and strong
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Starting archery...but with a plan!

Hello all.

I have just enrolled on a beginners archery course, I have been wanting to do this for years and now find i have the time and opportunity.

My interest has always lain in warbows. I understand that the nature of these weapons is such that you have to train yourself in order to shoot them and going out and getting one straight off is a recipe for injury and failure.

However, i do not want to waste training and time learning disiplines that i am not really interested in. The beginners course i understand is a sensible route in to the 'sport' but from there what is the best route?

Do any of you out there shoot warbows? What route did you take? and is the longbow the logical route to the warbow or should i get a suitable poundage warbow made up in the first instance and progress from there?

I ask all this as i do not know. I do not though want to waste time and money needlessly.

Lastly (for now) is the warbow accepted in clubs generally or will i have to find a group of warbow enthusiasts instead.

Cheers all. Carl.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-07, 05:17 PM
In the Blue
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Riser: Hickory/lemonwood
Limbs: Hickory/lemonwood
Sight: Wha?
Stabilisers: I'm lost...
Button: Shirts just for school
Bow String: Dacron
Arrows: Wood ;)

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Hi,

firstly I'd say take a look here, it's a fantastic place, for all things warbow: English Warbow it also has a forum, though you have to register to view it. Alanesq, a member here, shoots a warbow, so it might be worth contacting him. Steve Stratton at DIY Archery Longbow kits - manufactures of quality handmade Longbow arrows, arrowheads, staves, shafts and accessories makes warbows, and will make a lower poundage laminate warbow (full compass, and will draw to 32") for a very reasonable price, so he's the man to talk to, but there are a few people who make warbows. (Pip Bickerstaffe Bickerstaffe Bows Website also Pete Davidson from www.tradlongbows.com and probably some others) Hope you find what your looking for

Dave
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-07, 08:54 PM
steve58's Avatar
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Alanesq on this forum has been down the warbow route and it may be worth tracking down some of his posts. Think he has a webpage of his own somewhere too.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-07, 09:35 PM
Saxon's Avatar
In the White
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  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Early, usually 7am
Limbs: One, laminate warbow
Sight: 20-20
Stabilisers: Size 10
Button: More of a zip man
Bow String: Thick and strong
Arrows: Lots, mediaeval

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: England
Posts: 31

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Cheers guys for your replies, i think i may have an interesting year ahead of me!
If there are any groups out there in Dorset shooting the warbow i would be very interested in hearing from you.

Keep the replies coming though, hungry for information
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-07, 11:27 PM
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Riser: Hoyt Matrix
Limbs: 900cx 40#
Sight: Win&Win
Stabilisers: Beiter
Button: Shibuya DX
Bow String: 8125
Arrows: ACE 570

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Whats the difference between a warbow and longbow if you dont mind me asking? I just assumed a warbow was longbow with a very heavy draw weight.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-07, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acehero View Post
Whats the difference between a warbow and longbow if you dont mind me asking? I just assumed a warbow was longbow with a very heavy draw weight.
Well the definition of a Warbow is hotly debated but basically it is a longbow that bends full compass, i.e all the way through the handle. Weighs in excess of 80-90lb and is made from European Yew. If we are being historically correct then Spanish Yew in particular (not that you'll get hold of any now)


Most modern longbows tend to be of the Victorian style.
A Warbow (be it laminate replica or a self Yew) are basically the same design as those found on the Mary Rose (as these are the only models we have to go on)
By the time of the Mary Rose bows, they were at the peak of their manufacture/performance, they had had hundreds of years to perfect them. However they were also well into their decline.

A Victorian bow is shot Horace Ford style while a Warbow is shot in the medieval style, drawn to the ear or chest. This is known as shooting in the bow.

Carl, the route you want to follow is no different to any other bow. You don't want to jump straight in and start shooting a 50-60lb bow. You need to start with the lower weights and build up. The problem is that the early stages can be expensive because you will work your way up the weights fairly quickly till you get to the 70-80lb area. This means buying gradually heavier bows. If you do rush things you can end up with all sorts of injuries, some of them pretty painful and fairly serious, i.e shoulder problems, tendon problems and back problems. The best route in my opinion is to enjoy it firstly. You don't want to end up overbowed, or your technique will suffer. You want to get to the point where you are on top of the bow before considering moving on. There is a world of difference between drawing a heavy bow and shooting it.

Feel free to drop in at Warbow forum too. There are plenty of helpful people there who will be happy to give help and advice.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-07, 09:41 AM
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Hello,
I thought my ears were burning ;-)

I would say that when starting dont worry about draw weight, the most important thing about warbows is they are drawn to the ear rather than the chin or side of face that others use
so get yourself a cheap and cheerful bow that will draw that far (Most bows are only made to go to 28" and so if you draw them further they will probably snap)
You should be able to pick up a 40lb self bow for around £100 which will get you started (I am a big fan of self bows and prefer them to laminate)
Once people start telling you that you are drawing the bow completely wrong and you will hurt your back doing it like that then you know you have the technique about right ;-)

Later on you can get yourself a more expensive/heavier bow but its not in my opinion important what the actual weight of the bow is as long as its feeling heavy to you, and as jb.68 says the most important thing is to have fun :-)

As for clubs letting you use the bow this can be a problem :-(
Target archery it is no problem but BLBS and many field clubs will not let you use a longbow over 70lbs
You will probably find a lot of resistance to warbows but dont let them put you off, you have made the right decision. If you want to experience the longbow of legends a Victorian bow just isnt it. Shooting a warbow is a VERY different experience.

BTW - See Alan's Animal friendly longbow page for my story
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-07, 01:51 PM
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In the Blue
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Setup
Riser:
Limbs: long bow 40lbs
Sight: mark 1 eye ball
Stabilisers: arm
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Boynton pine medie

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the bigginer couse will teach you nearly ever think you need to now to use a long bow, when using a long bow you need to aim to the right a little i am at the red between the black line.
i use a 40lbs bow and i now that i can keep up with the other long bow people in my club in the summer when we do the try and hit a target at 100m, if you have never used a bow befor go for a 40lbs bow as you will hurt your slef trying to pull a 100lbs bow. and in door you are limertied to 70lbs.
dont worry about hitting the gold try to get a grooping first, make shure you pull the bow with your back mucles, and that you bow arm is not woberling, when you releace and your hand is behind your neck your doing it right.
and when you go to your club as a member you will probley have some 1 that uses a long bow we have 4 i mine including me.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-07, 02:55 PM
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Hickory/lemonwood
Limbs: Hickory/lemonwood
Sight: Wha?
Stabilisers: I'm lost...
Button: Shirts just for school
Bow String: Dacron
Arrows: Wood ;)

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sunderland,
Posts: 158

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I wouldn't say you need to aim to the right with a longbow, if you do have to I'd say that your arrows are probably spined too high for your bow, presuming you shoot right handed.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-07, 05:24 PM
teddybear's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: long bow 40lbs
Sight: mark 1 eye ball
Stabilisers: arm
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Boynton pine medie

Setup
Bow:
String & Cables:
Sight:
Stabs:
Scope:
Launcher/Rest:
Arrows:
Release Aid:
Traditional Script currently under construction
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: pembrokeshire
Posts: 152

Affiliations & Declarations (Click Here)
Affiliation: GNAS
Club: fish gard company of archers
Commercial: No Commercial Interest
Commercial Interest:
GNAS Classification: Unclassified
IFAA Classification: Unclassified

AIUK Rankings & Live Shoots (Click Here)
WL Ranking:
SL Ranking:

im an right eyed and every long bow man i now aims to the right for the aperdox
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