Wooden arrow length

[ChakaZulu]

I'm making my first set of wooden arrows.
I know that you measure arrow length from nock throat to bottom of pile on a target ally, but is the same true of field?

The tips are much longer, so a shaft cut to the same length as my ally is going to leave a longer arrow. Is that right, or do I cut the shaft smaller to allow the overall arrow length to be the same?

[Pete-60]

When you have tapered the shaft to accept the field point I think you will find very little difference in overall arrow length, maybe a 1/4" or so. Plus if you are using the same weight piles i.e. 100g it should not make any difference as such anyway.

Probably someone out there with more knowledge than me will know better, wait and see what other replies you get in the next couple of days.

[darthTer]

I was actually just going to post a similar message....

I currently shoot 31.5" carbons with my recurve, should I trim down my woodies to be then same length???

ta.

[Macbow]

Usually I cut my shafts so the point touches my arrow shelf material at full draw, kind of like a clicker. The arrows end up being just over my actual draw length. It is a harder way to tune and involves a lot if trial and error with shaft spine as I have predetermined the shaft length and the point weight.
You do not have as many tuning options with a tradbow compared to a recurve with a rest and pressure button so correct arrow length is a crucial part of the tuning process. The easiest way is just to cut the shafts to whatever length makes them fly best unfletched at 20 yards ie bareshaft tune a couple of shafts. Without feathers they should group with your fletched arrows - left too stiff, right too weak assuming you are right handed. Once they are flying straight you can deal with the nock height. Arrow too weak cut off 1/4" at a time until they stiffen. Arrow too stiff then go down a spine group and start again with a full length arrow.
Recently I have been tuning some new carbons by leaving them full length and cutting down in small increments. What I have discovered is that it is easier to aim (set my gap marks) with longer shafts (guess that's why sights on a recurve stick out so far in front of the bow) so I am going to give that a go.

[not dead yet]

wooden arrows== shorter then are , lighter they are , better tragectory, if you can get fletched arrows and bareshafts to group with wooden arrows you've got a damn good set of arrows, I aim on the gold at 100yds 11/32 shafts 4" fletchings 100 grains point majority go straight as a die
pete

[Macbow]

Originally Posted by not dead yet

if you can get fletched arrows and bareshafts to group with wooden arrows you've got a damn good set of arrows
pete

I buy matched sets, get them all as straight as possible and use this tuning method - works for me anyway.
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