To snake or not to snake?

[HOTHOUSEDOG]

After much putting off I've decided its time I tried to make my carriage bow. The plan is for a 50/60# Osage self bow. There is a little snake to the billets and i wondered on others design opinions.



http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...g/DSC00433.jpg

I would have liked to get a nice sttraightt limbed elb out of the billets but i think i'll have t follow the snake for strength, unless iback the bow with hickory, which will make a more stable long lasting bow. Hmmm I do always find this bit the hardest with a new bow. Actually trying to see thee bow hiding in the wood.
So what would you do?

[robtattoo]

Make it Snakey. As long as you chase a good ring for the back & follow the grain, it'll be fine! However....Osage doesn't lend itself to high-crowned bellies, ie; ELBs as it has a bad tendency to chrysal. You'd be far better off sticking with a narrow(ish) limbed flatbow. You'll get better cast, less handshock & far less belly-stress than with an ELB.
If you like, I can give you some dimensions taken directly from one of my bows tommorrow. It's a little heavier at 67#@29", but the weight could be tillered down.

[HOTHOUSEDOG]

Hi Rob,
It does look like it will be easier to get nice flat bow out of the billets. I had my heart set on an elb but i try to let the wood tell me whats inside rather than force it.
I would be very grateful if you've got time to send me dimentions from your bow. At lease i can make it a bit wider and avoid going down the backing route.
Its going to be a slow build but I'll post pictures as i go.

[robtattoo]

Here's the dimensions (gimme a shout if there's anything you don't understand)

OAL---65-1/4"
Nock to nock--- 64"

Dims accross the back/belly...

Handle --- 1-1/4"
Fade --- 1-7/16"
Mid limb --- 1-3/16"
Tip --- 7/16"

Length from fade to fade --- 11"
Handle lengh --- 5"
Fade length --- 3"


Dims from back to belly...

Handle centre --- 1-1/2"
Handle/fade meetup --- 11/16"
Fade/limb meetup --- 5/8"
Mid limb --- 1/2"
Tip --- 7/16"


Pics....
Top limb.....


Bottom limb.....


Handle/Fade.....


Unstrung profile.....


Braced profile.....


The bow holds a perfect 1" of deflex, 1 hour after it's unbraced from being shot. After 100 arrows it's holding 1-3/8" Deflex, reducing to 1" within an hour.
Draw weight is 67#@29", 70#@30" & shoots 1st 660gn arrow at 166fps, 100th 660gn arrow at 159fps. String is 10 strand Flemish twist 8125 (fast flight) with 16 strand padded loops. Silencers are Nutria fur.
It's very quick, low shock (Not even close to an ELB!) & very stable. I shot both days of the Scottish Champs with this bow & only un-strung it at the end of each day.

[HOTHOUSEDOG]

Thanks Rob. That really helps. I was trying to work how i would get the taper even through the snakey bits. Makes sense to go with a (virtually) flat bow and width tiller.
One question, How do you measure limb length? As the crow flies or along the curves? Do does it make little difference?

Nice bow by the way!

[robtattoo]

Thanks!
Measure your limbs straight down the middle. If you follow the 'snakey' bits, you'll end up with one limb longer than t'other

Here's some ideas of how 'snakey' you can get away with.....











All were made out of native Hawaian Guava, by my good friend over there, Manny. Top class hobby bowyer & owner of NO power tools!

[HOTHOUSEDOG]

Wow. Some really nice bows there. Its amazing how far from straight you can go and still get a good shooter. Your mate has got some skills!