Stringing a longbow

[Bald Eagle]

I make a stringer for long bows, especially the Pip Bickerstaffe type with two grooves on the top, at a price of £6-50. Very safe and easy to use.

[stevesjem]

By using the push pull method, if done correctly you hold the bow just above the handle and pull, while pushing the top limb away from you, this will bend the bow evenly as the top limb is usually 2" longer than the bottom, if you use the step through method then you are bending the bow unevenly and you could damage the bow, With regards to the stringer, this is the best form of stringing your bow as long as you have a stringing groove in your top nock, if you use a stringer with the leather caps on either end that you slide over each nock then don't be surprised if you bust your nocks off.

Cheers
Steve

[kernowtom]

go here to see what an expert does
http://www.bickerstaffebows.co.uk/html/bracing.htm
I also use a stringer on my heavier bow. I dont feel strong enough to be fully in control during a push pull and thus a stringer more reliably replicates the forces applied during the draw. This reduces the risks of creating unusual strains within the bow and consequent damage. This might be visible (eg. limb twisting) or invisible until that surprising blow on the head
tom

[jeduffey]

I use push-pull on my Welchman. He specifically recommends this on his website, to safe gaurd the horn tips. I have found that, much like picking up a motorcycle lying on the pavement, even this technique has some subtleties that often escape sharing. I string from left to right, lower limb against the left foot, upper limb in the right hand. So, I tend to lock my left forearm tight into my left hip. That way, the 'pull' part, at the handle, is done with as much of the whole body as possible. It also helps if you have a committed, positive attitude. There are days that just being doubtful of my ability to string a 50#er is enough to put it out of my reach.

As to the twisting of limbs, it has been my experience that this is more typical of recurves than longbows. It appears to be the result of wide, flat limbs, as well as the twistable nature of every recurve, plus the winding path the bow takes as it traverses from the ankle, around the back of the opposite thigh, and up to the hand. The ankle and thigh always present twisted planes and will want to twist your bow. For me the the step-through is not much easier, from a physical aspect, than push-pull. It is harder to explain and harder for most beginners to remember. Stringers are highly recommended for recurves.

Returning to the motorcycle analogy, the rule in my Dad's house was always, "If you can't start it (kick start), you can't ride it." It was the same for shooting; "If you can't string it, you can't shoot it." Even an eight year old child will tell you that having a bow you can string and shoot, is far superior to having a bow that you brag about, but don't shoot because you can't string it.