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Traditional Archery: Discussion/Q&A Discussions on the more traditional forms of archery: long bows, war bows, AFB, horse bows etc.

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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 21-07-06, 01:12 AM
Gibbon's Avatar
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Winact Riser+ Winnexs
Sight: Sure-Loc Contender-X
Stabilisers: Beiter
Button:
Bow String: 8125, green and badly made :P
Arrows: X7 2314 33"

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tbh i dont think that there is a better way of doing it... most of the people i know that shoot a more traditional bow have toyed with olympic style recurve at some point or other (whether it was before or after buying a traditional bow)

one question i have to ask though is why Karen seems so instantly dismissive of the "'under chin' anchor point".
The best longbow archer i know shoots with one...
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 21-07-06, 08:43 AM
Macbow's Avatar
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Blackbrook Zeta
Sight: gap system
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: 11/32 Pine

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibbon
tbh i dont think that there is a better way of doing it... most of the people i know that shoot a more traditional bow have toyed with olympic style recurve at some point or other (whether it was before or after buying a traditional bow)

one question i have to ask though is why Karen seems so instantly dismissive of the "'under chin' anchor point".
The best longbow archer i know shoots with one...
Gibbon - Most "instinctive" or barebow field archers prefer an anchor that brings the arrow closer to the eye which allows the tip of the arrow to become part of the sight picture. If I were to anchor under the chin my point on range would be about 90 yards, which for me is unworkable on a field course as the tip of the arrow (my sighting system) would be too far under the target faces to make easy gap calculations eg at 11-30 yards my arrowtip would be pointing into the ground many yards in front of the face. By anchoring middle finger in the corner of the mouth my point on is 45 yards which keeps me on the face or thereabouts for the majority of shots. A three fingers under the nock anchor is even closer to the eye and incredibly accurate but unfortunately not legal in IFAA longbow rules.
Anchor point along with almost every aspect of archery is a personal thing as people's face shapes and general physical build are different. When my friend who anchors the same way as me shoots my bow and arrows his point on distance is 30 yards.
Some longbow archers use a rubber band on the top limb as a sight in which case a low anchor point would be perfectly usable. It obviously works for your friend, irrespective of whether he uses a sight or not, but for the majority of traditional archers there are easier ways.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 21-07-06, 12:25 PM
In the Black
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs:
Sight:
Stabilisers:
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows:

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Yep - couldn't have put it better !

I suspect your longbow friend has an extremely good technique, shoots very long distances on a regular basis or uses the 'arrow arc' to aim aand so doesn't need the point of the arrow near the target in the sight picture.

Each to their own, but for a comparative novice I think it is easier to learn when you can relate what you see to how far it goes, and usually a higher anchor is needed to get the point anywhere near the target.

Also maybe bear in mind that if you want to compete in any field competitions it is as well to bear in mind the various (sometimes illogical) restrictions put on the various classes of bow, and check that what you are practising conforms to the rules of whatever it is you want to shoot.

Good luck -
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 21-07-06, 06:18 PM
Komier's Avatar
In the Green
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Southampton
Posts: 4
As I am planning on taking up archery for a long time, and there's no reason i can't collect a number of bows, I think i'm going to go with the modern recurve first, Will pick up a half decent riser and some cheaper limbs, easton ally arrows and build up some good form and technique, until i am well practised and able to keep good form with higher weight bows, then buy a longbow, and get into that as well. Having read a bit more on the forums, and been to Quicks and had a chat and a play there yesterday, it does seem the best way, and as i said, no reason i can't have both a little later on

English thats a nice offer thanks, i was actually looking at the Purbrook clubs website yesterday, when i finish my beginner course I'll pm you and perhaps come down and say hi one evening, its not far from me at all

Thanks again for all the replies everyone

-Dave
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-06, 01:42 PM
In the Blue
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: Merlin XV
Sight: Merlin Tri-Axis
Stabilisers: Merlin 28" Active Ba
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: x10's

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Quote:
I have a strong interest in learning to shoot traditional style bows, particularly English Longbows and even more so, Asiatic recurves (or horse bows if you prefer).
My advice to you is shoot what appeals to you most. If you love longbows, shoot a longbow. If you love compounds, shoot a compound. There is no reason to learn on any particular style of bow just because you are new. You can learn to shoot on any of them.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-06, 12:17 AM
gino's Avatar
In the Red
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser:
Limbs: 57lb Longbow (Y/RW/M)
Sight: a what?
Stabilisers: a what what?
Button:
Bow String:
Arrows: Pine, Goose and Horn

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Situations like this differ from person to person and I was stuck in a similar predicament myself when I started archery. I got into it in the first place because I tried a longbow at a reenactment training event. I joined my local archery club but no-one there shot a longbow who could help me. I desperately wanted to shoot a longbow but I needed to know how to shoot first! I started off using a recurve and borrowed a club bow for a few months and was coached on that for a while. Once I had ironed out most of my major faults and I felt that I had a consistent and effective technique I bought a longbow and used what I had learnt in recurve on that. I shoot a different style on it but most of the same rules and techniques still apply. I'm glad I did it that way, the club taught me really well and I think my technique would be rubbish if I hadn't learnt recurve from them originally.

In your personal situation it seems like there doesn't seem to be many people in your club who will be able to help you shoot a longbow so it may be better for you to learn how to shoot on a recurve and once you are comfortable with that then you can move onto a longbow.

Also, most novices I've seen tend to increase the weight of the bow as they get better and more experienced. On a recurve this is easily solved by replacing the limbs, you don't want to be buying a whole new longbow every now and then just as your starting out!
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-06, 11:33 AM
flamingbladerider's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 410
Ignore everyone else and do what feels right for you. I started on recurve because our club only teaches ( and i use that term very loosely) recurve. After 7 months of hating it and wasting money on equipment , went onto compound (which i absolutely love). I also shoot longbow and also have a Hungarian. 7 months wasted, but making up for it now. Do what you want and enjoy yourself.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-06, 11:39 AM
Marcus26's Avatar
that grass looks greener
  • Recurve
  • Compound
  • Traditional
Setup
Riser: Hoyt UltraElite Jade
Limbs: XT3000
Sight: SureLoc & 7x Scope
Stabilisers: 34" Doinker Elite
Button: Scott Longhorn IV Red
Bow String: RedBack Strings 452x
Arrows: ProTour 470 & 2315's

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If you want to shoot longbow, shoot longbow.
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