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| Traditional Archery: Discussion/Q&A Discussions on the more traditional forms of archery: long bows, war bows, AFB, horse bows etc. |
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| I made some purple longbow arrows a year or so ago, I used a basic kiddies paint and a polyurethane yacht varnish....however I don't recommend this as on impact you tend to get tiny cracks in the varnish and if water gets in you get purple hands. Wood stain or something that soaks in like the Newton and Windsor calligraphy ink sounds much more sensible. Another nifty trick you could use if you want something more unusual than arrow wrap is to get water-slip decal paper and print your own (purple) design. This stuff can be bought on line from hobby/model suppliers. Most website will have some form of advise on the use of the decal paper. However, most inkjet printer ink will wash off, so if you use decals give them a couple of coats of varnish allowing each to dry well before you trim them and water slip them. Happy arrow making. |
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| Waterslide decals Here you go- I did this for the NFAS board: Get some 'waterslide decal paper'- I get it off Ebay, and it comes in clear or white. Clear is best if you have tricky borders on the graphic and don't want to spend hours cutting it out, white is the only choice for most flags- your printer doesn't print white. The colours will be brighter too. Bear the background colour of the shaft in mind. Now find a pic you like on the interweb- hint: switch the adult material filter ON when searching images- you won't believe the things I found when I was looking for snakeskin. Interesting, but time comsuming. Copy and paste, and manipulate the image to your heart's content. Do a few dummy runs on regular paper before you waste the waterslide stuff- and cut and try the dummies on the arrowshaft too! I like to add my name, the spine rating and point weight of the arrow too- memory like a sieve. Right, print on your decal paper, let the ink dry, and spray on a SINGLE thorough coat of clear polyurethane- I like PlastiKote gloss. Don't be tempted to use the water based brush-on products- the ink will run. And stick to a single coat of poly- too many coats will make your decal too thick and stiff to adhere well to the shaft. Once dry (8-24 hours depending on temp and humidity) cut out the individual decals, and clean your shafts with a bit of alcohol or whatever. Soak the decals in cool water (warm water makes them wrinkle when you apply them) and slide them off the backing and onto the shaft when ready (about 40 secs). Slide them around to get them in position, and work out an air bubbles that got trapped. They're nowhere near as fragile as model airplane transfers, by the way. Leave to dry (24 hrs), seal with 2-3 coats of poly (you can use brush-on now, if you prefer) and you're done. Hope this helps. |
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| Staining shafts I use two types of stains for wooden shafts: Colron wood dye for woody colours (love the walnut stain), and Dylon dissolved in cheap Vodka for wilder colours (reds, yellows and even purple) Both types need 24 hours to dry, rub down with steel wool, seal and you're ready to seal. I really like PlastiKote polyurethane in spraycans- it's quick and easy to use, dries hard, and it is TOUGH! I abuse my arrows in the worst way, and I've yet to have the finish crack where the wood didn't. |
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| Nice instructions. Will this work for carbon/alloys? I Like the idea of name and custom graphics. Would a matt spray varnish be suitable. Have you done this on carbon/alloys and was it as succesful? |
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