Buying my first longbow

[kernowtom]

I agree with the above - do look on ebay - Pete (of trad longbows) often puts new bows on there - a friend here got a nice one for about £60 which was a real bargain - as far as cores go - the multiple laminates tend to shoot faster - some woods are faster than others but also have a reputatino for being more "critical" - ie harder to shoot consistently. I guess it makes some sense to go cheaper to start with - especially at 45lb draw. With a long draw length it'll go 100x fine - but it will lose a bit of cast in time and you may want another bow sooner than you think. Also... don't forget the arrows.. I reckon you can spend more on them than on bows in the long run. No bow is better than the arrows it shoots (that sounds like a quote?) and with wooden arrows unless you spend a fortune it is difficult to get good matched sets. (have a look at http://www.little-john-arrows.com/ to get an idea of what they can cost:-)
It is cheaper to make your own - especially as they are not difficult to break...

[Schme1440]

Well Im happy with the bow situation. Single hardwood core. Now arrows.
As you jsut mentioned its about getting matched sets. So concidering I will be making my own. have made a set of x10's and x7's this year so not new to arrow making. What spine should I go for? I heard you should go one spine whippier than what your bow is set at. So if I have a 45lb bow I should go for 40lb spine arrows? True or False?

Second I was thinking of staying cheap on the shafts. however I was going to go for a bout 2 doz shafts to give me the best option of getting a matched set. Is this a good way to start?

[kernowtom]

bugger - just typed an answer and somehow deleted it all
try again....

spine - yes 35/40 but if you are going for longer arrows - say 30" with a fast bow you might want to try 40/45 - you may need to experiment a bit before you are happy. Point weight is also significant, as I am sure you know. 80g or 100g seeems to be most popular.

(There is also the paradox thing - again you will know about this - for indoor shooting arrows big fletchings will straighten quicker - there is a very good thread about this)

shafts - yes I buy 24 to pick the best 10 or 12, make them up and shoot to get the best grouping 8 (There always seems to be one that veers or dives for no apparent reason) . When i need more I buy another 12 shafts and pick the closest dozen again. Better archers than me (most!) use bigger numbers to get a closer match.

hope this helps
tom

[Schme1440]

Wicked So I was thinking 45lb single core longbow from bickerstaffe. 35-40lb spine shafts at 30" (shaft length only). I was thinking 100gr points with 4" shield vanes for both indoors and outdoors.

If anyone thinks I should change something please please post and let me know.

Now Tab or Glove? I was thinking tab. I have a loverly angel tab I was going to use and maybe get a glove for field. I guess tab is best for target. Field depends on if I anchor under chin or instinctive style and anchor on side of face. Tab it is. No need to reply on this.

Whan making my arrows should I invest in grain scales and weight all my components before manufacturing? I was thinking matching so the lightest shaft has heaviest point and visa versa. Would that be a good idea? Im guessing though the components will probably weight the same. Would it then be adviseable adjust shaft lengths to get same weights?

[Schme1440]

Hmm thanks ruth. I was thinking about that but not sure if it would be ok. I will start with a tab and see what happens. I may end up with a glove. Might be able to cure it with a thick finger spacer? Id like to use a tab, think it would giveme better consistancy. Ill have to keep that inmind.

[clickerati]

Originally Posted by ruthmc

Actually I'd advise a glove. It's too easy to pinch LB arrows with a tab, and a glove will allow for greater finger spread.

From one who knows

Ruth

And gloves are sexier.

From one who knows

[Aliwren]

If you did go for the Bickerstaffe they will make a set of arrows matched to the bow at the same time - though check the price I think £70ish a set. I have ordered one set to go with my bow and it is my intention to get all of the arrow details and when those break to make my own and experiment!

The web site also has bows cheaper than the £210 ones - I was advised when i was looking not to spend too much and that the £210 spec. was the maximum advised to spend on a first bow. As others have already said draw weight ect will increase fairly raidly - though it will still be a good bow for indoors when it is replaced.

[Gryffyn]

I am new to longbow too. After a long chat on the phone I was happy to place an order for a basic longbow with a 40lb dw and a DL of 32". This is being made to order and it is costing £180 to my spec. 12 arrows matched to the bow are £85 (6 field point, 3 short bodkin, 3 rubber tipped).
The basic bow is hickory backed lemonwood and has horn nocks. The full package, incl shipping, is £289.

[Schme1440]

Originally Posted by ruthmc

It would have to be a bloody good finger spacer! I find that pulling the heavier poundage of a LB makes the fingers tend to slide towards the nock more than usual, so a good wide initial finger spread will allow them to anchor before they get too close to the arrow. But that's just me. And as I am virtually self-taught on LB, I can only go by my own experience. Try both and see which works best!

Ruth

Ill keep that in mind ruth cheers mate.

[kernowtom]

I think the tab -v- glove is personal choice... there are good archers in both camps.. (but I think platform tabs are not allowed under BLBS rules).

Bear in mind that you need six arrows outdoors (plus something for bouncers).. and they do break... so if you are buying 12 I would suggest getting 12 the same, or maybe 8 for outdoor plus four for indoor.. it will be longer before you need any more

But its all about what you want to do..