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| Traditional Archery: Discussion/Q&A Discussions on the more traditional forms of archery: long bows, war bows, AFB, horse bows etc. |
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| Not my field, though I do some work of other sorts with wood. I am sure there are a lot of people on AIUK who can give you advice. I know Toxophilist has made a number of bows in various woods. He has tried Sycamore, and I think was not bery impressed. Hopefully he will drop by later, or you could PM him. I will be watching the thread with interest, as one day I will give it a go.... A few weekends ago I was down at Yandles in Somerset eyeing up some hickory and lemon wood (both quite commonly used). I did take a look at maple for Toxophilist, but the selection was not great, not much straight grained (common in maple), and the only nice pieces were much larger than needed, and consequently more than I wanted to spend. |
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| There was a recent article in, I think Bowsports International, by Pip Bickerstaffe. He (as I recall - prepared to be shot down in flames) said that Yew is probably one of the least good woods to use. It can be very pretty, but English Yew doesn't grow slowly enough, and even when he got special Italian staves he didn't get very many really good bows from them. Lemonwood and Orange Osage are popular. The Traditional Bowyers Bible (can be found quite cheaply on Amazon, especially amazon.com rather than Amazon.co.uk) goes into woods quite a bit, although largely with regard to flat bows rather than the traditional longbow. Even so very good reading, and lots of good advice all round. What about using a bunch or bamboo garden canes? |
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| European sycamore is a bit light for use on bows, but other forms of maple are very good. Maple's readily available with long straight grains. Ash is fine, as are oak, beech and other "white" hardwoods. |
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| wood If you are thinking about buying a bow, I think any reputable bowyer will use woods that work - none of them will want to sell you a bow that is no good and laminating overcomes many problems that arise with self bows. Safe combinations will have a maple, hickory or bamboo back with a core and belly lamination of hardwood. I suspect the making of the bow is more important than the wood, as long as it is basically ok. If you are thinking of making a bow -the choice is wide. I have made a bow from a kit before, but I just bought some wood at Yandles. They have yew, but I couldnt see any suitable pieces. There is plenty of lemon wood, but also a lot of other nice (and more interesting) tropical hardwood. I bought some goncalo alves and also a nice piece of ash. I am using a bamboo backing and i reckon I now have enough material to mess up a few bows and hopefully make one or two half decent ones for around £30 total. |
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| Another question, how are arrow plates attached to the bow? and is it possible to attach one after the bow has been made or not?
__________________ Definitions of Science: If it's green or wiggles, it's biology. If it stinks, it's chemistry. If it doesn't work, it's physics |
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| When I did a bow making course the method I was shown involved chiselling a small hollow out of the side of the bow ( about 3/16” deep) and gluing in a piece of horn. Then file the horn down to be flush with the surface of the bow.The arrow plate is about 1/4" wide by 3/4" tall. Best wishes , Mark |
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| arrow plates yes - add after tillering but before fitting handle and finishing. Cut out profile and epoxy in place.. be carefull!! I did the cut-out for one with the bow upside down:-) Oh.. I just got some horn tips delivered.. so all set now.. |
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