Wooden arrow advise

[Schme1440]

I need lots of help.

First I have just purchased a 45# @ 28" Hungarian replica bow. I need to get arrows for it. I will be making my own and would be cutting the shaft length to around 29" (the bit between the nock and point). This does not include the taper for the nock and point. I want to use BOYTON Scots Pine shafts. What specs do I need? I no nothing on wooden shafts.

Second What are the best points for target and field? Would the standard bullet brass points be ok? and if so what point weight would work best?

Third what would be the best glue to secure the nock and point? I already have some fletching cement some where.

Forth What is the best way to finish the shafts? I want to paint them matt black from a spray can. Is this ok?

Fifth If I dont paint whats the best way to finish the shafts (varnish/wax) to give a smooth finish? and If i dont whats the best finish to use?

I may have more questons but that should be a good start.

If there is anything else I need to know please let me know.

Oh and please be patient. I can make carbon/ali shafts from scratch but have no clue with wooden shafts.

[JohnK]

You live dahn sarf, don't you? Look up Carol Edwards. You can visit her workshop, try a bundle of different arrows with your new bow and walk out with the components you need.

[Schme1440]

Hm thats a good point. I shall try to find her. I heard provins tlaking to Joelondon and katelondon about her at the SOSO. Im off before christmas. Think Ill pop in and say hello. Im gonna go lookng for her details but if some one knows can they please let me have them. Cheers. Also if anyone can advise on anyof the points above, I respect you all enough to listen.

Thanks Neil

[Schme1440]

Originally Posted by Schme1440

Im gonna go lookng for her details but if some one knows can they please let me have them

Found her. Joe/Kate if your planning on poping down let me know and we could meet up down there unless your gonna go see steve instead.

[robtattoo]

Asiatic bows work pretty much along the same arrow spine rules as Longbows (being that neither are cut to centre)

For a 45# bow, may I suggest you would want to start off with a 35/40 shaft.
To start with though, I'd be tempted to leave the length at 30" + (you can always shorten them, if they're too weak)

11/32 shafts would be the way to go (in my opinion) rather than 5/16 (they have the same static & dynamic spine, but they're a lot stronger over short lengths. Makes a big difference when you rattle 'em off a tree )

Try 100gn piles to start with (again, if your arrows are too stiff, you can always up the point weight to 125gn to weaken them) Either bullet or field piles will be fine. If you're only shooting flat faces, bullets are great. If you shoot a lot of 3Ds, go with field piles. They have far less tendency to 'skip' over or under a target in the event of a marginal hit.

A lot of folks recommend Araldite for securing piles. Personally I use bog standard, DIY grade, Bostik hot melt. My reasoning behind this...After making up a dozen with adaldite, I found that if I hit a tree/rock/innocent bystander, the arrow had a tendency (read; every single bloody one) to snap directly behind the pile. While this isn't really a problem (you can re-taper the shaft) for the first time it happens, it really screws up your spining. By using soft ish hot melt, it acts as a bit of cushioning. Admittedly you'll occasionally leave a pile in a tree (or particularly hard boss ) but overall it's cheaper to replace lost piles than broken arrows!

I use Bostik general purpose glue for the nocks (in the Purple tube) No problems with it so far!

You'll be fine spray painting your shafts, but givethem a quick sand first with some fine (000 or 0000) wire wool. If you decide not to paint them, yu can do what you like! I use High Gloss Varnish on mine, mainly to protect the cresting (I like to get elaborate & I'll spend over an hour cresting each arra!) Tung oil, Danish oil, Neetsfoot oil & Teak oil all work well as a weatherproof sealer & they help to lubricate your arrows for pulling. Remember to check each arrow for straightness BEFORE you paint or seal them though. It's not a problem with the oil, but if you paint or varnish you'll seal in any warpage! (mind you, if you get your Boytons from Goldfligt, Dennis'll straighten them before he sends them anyway! :thumbup:

The best advice I can give you is to experiment! Try different spines, pile weights & lengths & see what works best for you!

Enjoy!

[Schme1440]

Thanks rob. Think I will pop down and see Carol. I will start with your advice but at least then I mite be able to try some shafts and see how they go.

With regards to straightening the shafts, how is it done? Plenty of steam them eave em on a flat surface or is it more techincal?

Is dennis the fella with the shafts on Ebay?

[robtattoo]

I straighten my shafts with dry heat. Hold 'em near (NOT over) the flame of the gas cooker until they're almost to hot to hold & flex 'em away from the bend. Hold for a few seconds until they cool down & voila!
Dennis does sell through EBay, or you can go to www.goldflightarchery.co.uk

[gino]

I use araldite on my points, it works fine and like rob said, the point won't come off if you use it. Unless you use it for a fire-arrow, araldite powders under heat and your point will fall off. So unless you intend to set fire to your arrows araldite will work fine.
I use Danish Oil for my shafts. It's waterproof, gives a good natural colour and leaves a very smooth finish.

hope this helps.

[Schme1440]

Cool. Think Ill order the parts and make them up as you said then take it from there. Just one last thing. How do you tell stiff or weak arrows? is it like recurve? Do weak ones goe left and stiff right?

[Schme1440]

Originally Posted by gino

I use Danish Oil for my shafts. It's waterproof, gives a good natural colour and leaves a very smooth finish.

Would Ronseal work? Just I have easy access to B&Q and dont wanna spend me weekend looking for special oils or varnishes.