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| Traditional Archery: Discussion/Q&A Discussions on the more traditional forms of archery: long bows, war bows, AFB, horse bows etc. |
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| horn nocks Hi... I want to put horn nocks on my red oak longbow (see my previous thread). It is a 50# d-shaped english style longbow with a linen back. It has hand carved nocks. Can anybody offer any insights regarding putting horn nocks on this bow? I can attach photographs of my bow if this will help. best.... Scott |
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| HI.... Here are the pictures of my nocks: http://s-a-roush.smugmug.com/gallery/2278913 Let me know what you think! |
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| I wouldn't bother. Leave it as a selfbow.
__________________ Come & see me at; [COLOR="Red"][FONT="Arial Black"][I]robtattooknives.com [/I][/FONT][/COLOR] |
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| The problem with a self bow is the fact that you are limited to the competitions you are allowed to shoot in
__________________ Purple Mafia ![]() Luck is what you have left over after you give 100% |
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| What limitations are those?
__________________ 25.8069758 is the root of all evil |
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| limitations I guess... like cricket is a competition you are not allowed to shoot in... unfortunately for the england team... |
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| Tom.... please don't mention the cricket... ![]()
__________________ 25.8069758 is the root of all evil |
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| Horn nocks. Hmm. Should be possible... not sure if I would myself. However, here's how it's done. 1. You can get the rough-carved nocks from Highland Horn in Scotland, pop it into Google (UK pages) and you'll get the phone no. I think Richard Head may sell them too, but they all come from Highland Horn first anyway. 2. If you don't get pre-carved nocks you'll need a horn tip and a cone-shaped drill bit to carve a cone socket in the horn. Plus a saw to rough shape- I have a big bandsaw, a 6tpi skip-tooth works well on horn but watch fingers, better to cut hole and glue to a former with hot hide glue temporarily when cutting to make sure you keep all your pinkies. You can modify a spade-bit to cut the cone-hole too. To carve the nock, drill the cone hole, then put on a former to roughly shape (files/rasps/sanding works well with horn) then carve, you need a fine file for the string groove, a chainsaw sharpening file works well. Be careful when shaping that the horn is not too thin under the string groove and that the string groove is places where there will be wood underneath. 3. You need to carve the ends of the bow to a cone to fit the nock. In your case you may also need to put a small reinforcing strip of wood on the back of the nocks, it's difficult to tell from pics, to get an even round shape. 4. To check the fit of the rough-carved bow-end, coat the inside of the nock with pencil lead or engineers blue and push it on, it'll show you where you need to trim- a good fit is important. 5. Once you have a decent fit, time to glue. Use 24-hour cure Araldite or similar epoxy. 6. Finishing- the fine finishing is done on the bow, valve grinding paste and them polishing compounds. You may also with to drill a small hole in the tip for a ribbon string-keep. It's difficult to describe, but both Hilary Greenland and Pip Bickerstaff have written books that detail the process and have plenty pics. As I say, I personaly wouldn't bother- unless you want to shoot in BL-BS comps of course, but if that is the case, check the bow meets BL-BS spec for profile first too before you spend that much time on it! Good luck, DarkHorse. |
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