Finishing wood shafts

[Tarkwin]

Is there a reccommended varnish/sealer for wood shafts?

I've tried <insert name of DIY Retailer here> own brand quick dry clear varnish to achieve mediocre results - even after several rub backs and reapplications. I used a brush to apply it, is dipping likely to give better results?

Oh and cresting? is it really as difficult as I make it appear?

T.

[gino]

Danish Oil is what I use to waterproof my arrows. It's relatively easy to use, makes your arrows waterproof without making them look like they're covered in varnish (which I don't like, arrows should be wooden) and it leaves a nice natural wooden colour

G.

P.S. I don't do cresting so I wouldn't know.

[ThePinkOne]

If you want a nice golden tinge, gunstock oil is good too.

P.

[Bald Eagle]

Tarkers, Ronseal rubbing varnish is excellent! Danish oil is not waterproof and gun oil I'm afraid will "soften" the shaft. Put your nocks on, then the piles,then smooth the shaft with fine wire wool Apply the varnish with a soft lint free cloth,rubbing briskly, this way the varnish goes into the wood and does not sit on top and needs no rubbing down between coats. You can do this with any good varnish but Ronseal do a cool range of tints!

[Windknot]

I use Plastikote PolyUrethane- the spray-on stuff.

I find two coats will give you a nice weather resistant arrow, my usual six coats makes the shafts damned near impregnable to moisture. And poly is tough as nails, so rocks and trees won't crack the finish.

If you're going to rub down with steel wool between coats, make sure you leave the shafts to cure for 24 hours before you rub them down, or else the finish will have blemishes. Purely cosmetic, but undesirable all the same.

[gino]

Originally Posted by Bald Eagle

Danish oil is not waterproof

On the back of my bottle of Rustins Danish Oil:
"Danish Oil contains tung oil and other special ingredients which penetrate deep into all types of timber, drying to a hard, durable and water resistant seal"

I've used my arrows in the rain, snow and even skimming across puddles and they are still as good as they were when they started.

Why do you think it's not waterproof then?

[Miner Willy]

I use danish oil on my arrows too. Never had any problems with them not been waterproof. One thing have done previously is to stain them using a wood stain such as Rustin's Ebony stain, then applied a couple or three coats of danish oil. You can do done with your arrows within 24 hours too.

I do like the sound of tint's though...

[Bald Eagle]

On a tin of Danish Oil i have it says "clear varnish must be applied for a waterproof seal" mind you, it's an old tin.

[Kae]

AFAIK Danish Oil is not waterproof but water resistant. Two completely different things, however either is good enough for arrows, as long as they aren't stored in wet conditions (lets be honest, they aren't, lol).

I use Ronseal clear satin varnish, applied to the bare shaft (made a holder by drilling 12 5/16th" holes into a length of wood, so they stick into it perfectly vertically without nocks or piles), and use pieces of old foam to apply. I apply a layer of varnish, then wire wool, then varnish.
I then cut the arrows to length, then nock, fletch and finally glue on the piles.

I've had an arrow go missing for 4 months in a wet garden over winter, and it was still shootable when I found it (had been stuck in wet mud for a long time by the looks of it), although it looked worse for wear.

Kae.

[smog]

I use vanish applied with a sponge to get a smooth layer. When dry will go over with a brown paper bag (very gentle abrasive), then crest (no it's not hard) then varnish x2. Finishing with a smoothing with the brown paper. Somewhere on AI in the trad section is a photo of the jig I use for cresting.

s